Mangawhai and Mangawhai Heads were only linked as a result of the causeways across the inlets and mangroves separating them.

The Insley Street causeway facilitating travel between Te Hana on SH1 and Mangawhai, was opened in 1960, and the Molesworth causeway uniting the two centres of Mangawhai and Mangawhai Heads in the mid ‘70s.

This avoided a previously much longer journey for locals via the older Tara and Cove Roads.

Today the whole area seems to be buzzing with building and re-development work, and although there is a strong resident population, holiday homes and facilities seem to be the local economic driving force.

The owner of Celenas Gifts confirmed that the busiest time in the village is at weekends.

There are two roads leading to Mangawhai from the main Highway. One runs from just north of Te Hana, and the other due east from Kaiwaka.

Both are typical secondary Northland routes of severe curves and gradients, but are superior to the Cove Road approach from Waipu.

Conservatively this road could be described as “hairy” and with a couple of 25Km hairpin bends, is not recommended for heavy traffic. But for a leisurely journey it has a great deal of charm, passing through some fine regenerating bush.

Mangawhai means “stream of the stingray,” being a reference to the local chief of the area whose pa was at what is now known as Moir Point.

The local tribes fought a couple of fierce battles in around 1807 and 1825, (the latter with muskets with devastating consequences) resulting in a tapu being placed on the area, only lifted in the 1990s.

Bennetts Cafe lends a Tuscan feel to expanding Mangawhai. Photo Crispin Caldicott.

European settlement began in the 1830s, resulting in the usual wholesale destruction of the Kauri forests. Crown sales of local land began in 1854 with grants dished out to soldiers of the 58th regiment, and a number of settlers from the UK at a rate of 40 acres per adult and 20 per child.

The Kauri timber led to an expanding boat building industry between 1850-1900. A Waipu settlement connection was provided by DH McKenzie, part owner of the final Nova Scotian immigration vessel, the Ellen Lewis, who had two vessels, the Abeona and the Three Brothers built at Mangawhai.

Today Mangawhai has managed to retain some of its charm as a village centre, despite some striking architecture that places it firmly in the 21st century.

The attempt by Bennetts cafe at an Italianate villa is commendable, especially with the Olive plantings in front. Time will lend it a maturity that could just place it deep in the heart of Tuscany or Provence - with a few Lombardy Poplars in the background.

Another striking, and very modern building is the Smashed Pipi Gallery, which offers a large range of works and jewellery by Barbara Hockenhull and other contemporary New Zealand artists.

Pipeband at the Waipu Museum.

The delightful museum, alongside the fine old library building is open every Saturday morning, or by appointment, and must be the original “Cottage museum.” 

Once safely over the Molesworth causeway, and passed the numerous Norfolk Pines that seem to thrive in the area you reach Mangawhai Heads.

It is hard to find a heart to this essentially holiday resort, but this lack of centre is more than made up for by the stunning vistas of estuary, sand bar, surf and beach that have drawn so many to the area. As well as a strong local promotion of walkways within the built-up areas, there are two notable walks starting from close by.

The Mangawhai Cliffs walk is around 5km starting at the surf club. At low tide it is possible to return along the beach. The second is about 20km along the ridge of the Brynderwyn range. Both offer terrific and varying views of sea and landscape in many directions.